7 minutes ago, xzmattzx said:

I have not even started looking at things, and haven't cut the power yet.  I don't have an electrical tester of my own yet, so I could use a suggestion on that, if there's one better than the others.

Ok, so the melatonin is kicking in so I’m not sure how much longer I’ll be up. So apologies if you reply and I ghost you for the evening.  
 

So let’s pretend that you have ground wires behind your outlets. I want to know why you are looking at GFCI.  
Also, are you talking about one outlet or many?

16 minutes ago, paco said:

Ok, so the melatonin is kicking in so I’m not sure how much longer I’ll be up. So apologies if you reply and I ghost you for the evening.  
 

So let’s pretend that you have ground wires behind your outlets. I want to know why you are looking at GFCI.  
Also, are you talking about one outlet or many?

This is many outlets; probably half of my house has the two-prong.  I think they are all original to the house from the 60s.

 

I'm trying to get some information a little farther down the road so I don't start taking things apart and have no idea at all what I'm doing.  If I can eliminate some items to look at, or know why one thing or another should be done, then I don't go too off-course anywhere.

7 hours ago, xzmattzx said:

This is many outlets; probably half of my house has the two-prong.  I think they are all original to the house from the 60s.

 

I'm trying to get some information a little farther down the road so I don't start taking things apart and have no idea at all what I'm doing.  If I can eliminate some items to look at, or know why one thing or another should be done, then I don't go too off-course anywhere.

Ok, so you are replacing a whole bunch of outlets.  Save yourself a lot of money and future grief and don't buy those.  GFCI is only for when you need protection from water (and you only need one per circuit, every outlet down current is also protected).  Also, they go bad after time.  Just get a 10+ pack of outlets of the correct amperage like this 15 amp residential grade or this 20 amp commercial grade.

 

Now if you do have a series of outlets near water in your bathroom or kitchen (and I HIGHLY doubt this since your house would never pass inspection), then you will want to install a GFCI outlet on the first outlet in the circuit.  But that should not be the case.

8 hours ago, xzmattzx said:

I want to replace 2-prong outlets with 3-prong outlets.  What is the difference between these two types?  How do I find out if I can use one or the other or either at my house?

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-20-Amp-125-Volt-Duplex-SmarTest-Self-Test-SmartlockPro-Tamper-Resistant-GFCI-Outlet-Ivory-R91-GFTR2-0KI/206001513

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-125-Volt-Duplex-SmarTest-Self-Test-SmartlockPro-Tamper-Resistant-GFCI-Outlet-Ivory-R91-GFTR1-0KI/205999815

Hi, my name is BFit and I am not a registered electrician. Now that we've gotten that out of the way......

 

What you are trying to do will not pass code, and a registered electrician will most likely not do. Now, should that concern you? Probably not. There is a good possibility that when you take the old outlet out, you will find the wire hooked up to it will just have 2 conductors, meaning there is no way to hook up a ground. The fix? Don't hook up the ground. It's the same thing as cutting the ground lug off a cable (which I have done many times) or using a ground lifter (of which I own many). For example, sometimes in the audio world you will get a hum caused by the ground. It's called a ground loop, easy fix is to just eliminate the ground. 

Now as for the outlets you linked, first off they are GFCI and will not work without a ground. You need non GFCI outlets, which means outlets with no buttons. 

Now, as for the difference in the 2 outlets you linked (20 amp vs 15 amp), just get 15 amp. 20 amp ( the one that looks like it's winking at you) will work, but it's unnecessary. 99.9% of the time you won't see a 20 amp plug on something unless it draws a lot of power (60 gallon air compressor, 3500 watt amplifier, large drill press, etc). Plus if you have a 15 amp breaker on that circuit and try to plug one of those things, there's a good chance that it'll just keep tripping the breaker. 

 

In conclusion, buy some cheap 15 amp outlets, wire them in with no ground, don't call the inspector and when your done, crack open a celebratory beer. 

27 minutes ago, BFit said:

Hi, my name is BFit and I am not a registered electrician. Now that we've gotten that out of the way......

 

What you are trying to do will not pass code, and a registered electrician will most likely not do. Now, should that concern you? Probably not. There is a good possibility that when you take the old outlet out, you will find the wire hooked up to it will just have 2 conductors, meaning there is no way to hook up a ground. The fix? Don't hook up the ground. It's the same thing as cutting the ground lug off a cable (which I have done many times) or using a ground lifter (of which I own many). For example, sometimes in the audio world you will get a hum caused by the ground. It's called a ground loop, easy fix is to just eliminate the ground. 

Now as for the outlets you linked, first off they are GFCI and will not work without a ground. You need non GFCI outlets, which means outlets with no buttons. 

Now, as for the difference in the 2 outlets you linked (20 amp vs 15 amp), just get 15 amp. 20 amp ( the one that looks like it's winking at you) will work, but it's unnecessary. 99.9% of the time you won't see a 20 amp plug on something unless it draws a lot of power (60 gallon air compressor, 3500 watt amplifier, large drill press, etc). Plus if you have a 15 amp breaker on that circuit and try to plug one of those things, there's a good chance that it'll just keep tripping the breaker. 

 

In conclusion, buy some cheap 15 amp outlets, wire them in with no ground, don't call the inspector and when your done, crack open a celebratory beer. 

And not too closely, you are not GFCI protected.

Also...

33 minutes ago, BFit said:

Now, as for the difference in the 2 outlets you linked (20 amp vs 15 amp), just get 15 amp. 20 amp ( the one that looks like it's winking at you) will work, but it's unnecessary. 99.9% of the time you won't see a 20 amp plug on something unless it draws a lot of power (60 gallon air compressor, 3500 watt amplifier, large drill press, etc). Plus if you have a 15 amp breaker on that circuit and try to plug one of those things, there's a good chance that it'll just keep tripping the breaker. 

If the breaker is 20 amp, why not put 20 amp plugs in?  Really doesn't cost that much more.  Maybe the dude wants to put a full sized fridge in next to his TV.

 

and

  

33 minutes ago, BFit said:

Hi, my name is BFit and I am not a registered electrician. Now that we've gotten that out of the way......

 

What you are trying to do will not pass code, and a registered electrician will most likely not do. Now, should that concern you? Probably not. There is a good possibility that when you take the old outlet out, you will find the wire hooked up to it will just have 2 conductors, meaning there is no way to hook up a ground. The fix? Don't hook up the ground. It's the same thing as cutting the ground lug off a cable (which I have done many times) or using a ground lifter (of which I own many). For example, sometimes in the audio world you will get a hum caused by the ground. It's called a ground loop, easy fix is to just eliminate the ground. 

 

Honestly @xzmattzx, just get a few of those.  If you REALLY want to start the project, pull an outlet out (with the power cut to it, of course) and see if you only have the 2 wires. If you have 3 wires, have fun and do the update.  But if you have two, just get the adapter.

9 hours ago, xzmattzx said:

I have not even started looking at things, and haven't cut the power yet.  I don't have an electrical tester of my own yet, so I could use a suggestion on that, if there's one better than the others.

easy to make a homemade version with various objects around the house: basically a pen, rubber band, and someone stupid enough to follow through.

oh a phone with a really good camera, and video hosting site that allows hotlinking. have someone keep us posted. 

 

2 hours ago, paco said:

Also...

If the breaker is 20 amp, why not put 20 amp plugs in?  Really doesn't cost that much more.  Maybe the dude wants to put a full sized fridge in next to his TV.

 

and

  

Honestly @xzmattzx, just get a few of those.  If you REALLY want to start the project, pull an outlet out (with the power cut to it, of course) and see if you only have the 2 wires. If you have 3 wires, have fun and do the update.  But if you have two, just get the adapter.

Honestly it's not really gunna make a difference, but I'm assuming his wiring is old, and on the off chance that he has a 20 amp breaker and old wiring that isn't rated for 20 amps and he plugs something big in it could be a fire hazard. Now, chances of that are super slim but hey, anythings possible 

Of importance something that @BFit said...... Not pass code.

 If you have intentions of selling the property in the future , you run a different risk. An inspector might catch this. Then the buyer has ammunition to bust your rocks.

As far as what you're trying upgrade...... If you have no intention of going anywhere and the cabling permits it a ground fault outlet can't hurt ( actually its designed not to hurt ). The 1st key is does the cabling allow for it ? 2nd.... Is back to the amperage. Basic math time ...how many amps will be drawing that particular breaker.

Finally... don't rush ....take your time. By all means, make sure the wire that you're putting back into those boxes do not have a bunch of exposed copper where they can short out.

 

 

When I get to feeling frustrated there's nothing like doing a little demo work. I watch way too much HGTV.  This room is way overdue to get fixed up.  When my son slept in here the window AC he had leaked inside, so I finally ripped out the damaged area.  Who knew the place is made of concrete block and absolutely zero insulation! I really do not want to rip the whole wall down (this is a rental unit).  Wanted to see what you experts think of my idea.

Budget $500.  Put some spray foam under the window.  Secure window (it's not loose whatsoever-it's tight) with either wood slats or a scrap piece of plywood to build it out to the existing rest of the wall.  Then, install 3-4x8 sheets panelboard with adhesive.  I priced the panelboard at $21.48 per sheet.  Found some flooring for 0.98 sq ft, so 8 cartons comes to roughly $170.  Paint, supplies. I think this patch job will hold until I die.

It's disgusting in there right now. I have the window open, and the door shut.  Towels stuffed in the feed and return ducts. With the nicer weather this week hope to get the rest of the floor up and clean up.    

Patch job went ok. I really don’t care.  Got the wood from the warehouse at work.  Since I worked from home today thought I try out the paint color on the window.  I’ll be painting for a few days. Ceiling needs a 2nd coat.   I’m at budget. Accessories don’t count right?  
 

Will be decent enough for my kids or guests to have a place to sleep when they come.  

16 hours ago, Arthur Jackson said:

those accessories don't come cheap but i will.

Progress pic.  Might do another ceiling coat. And take next pic in the daylight. 

I have a clogged faucet drain in my sink.  It is clogged or blocked way deep in the wall, because I have taken the pipes off and tried putting a Zip It line in there to pull anything out, and it just stops.  I have a friend that's a plumber, but he's too busy for a while due to family things to take care of it for me, so it looks like I'll have to go back myself and work on it.  Any thoughts on what it could be that is blocking it off deep in the wall?

 

P.S. Di, you're a much better person than me.  I am way too scared to tackle DIY projects at my house.  I can't take that leap to try and see if I can get a given project done.

Cheap $20 auger that attaches to your drill.... just go slow.

1 minute ago, Steve 17 said:

Cheap $20 auger that attaches to your drill.... just go slow.

That's what she said

Floor is done. Need trim up next. I put this lamp together without using any curse words and only lost 1 screw. Was glad they sent extra they were microscopic. 

Almost a month later and no trim. I was painting around the closet door Sunday and dropped the can on the floor. Thought I'd try to liquid nail some baseboard trim (1/4 round) as it's so old I'm afraid a nail might break it.  What you see in the pic is just laying there -it's not attached. Well, had 1 tube and I put it in the gun and the bottom busted.  It was too old probably.  Like me.  The new floor and the trim are not matching up.  The two holes for the feed and return registers are too big.  Not a total nightmare but a very bad dream night after night of not having a finished room. 

I don't know why I subject myself to this.  Doing things I've never done before is a real trigger for me.  It angers me but I have to keep trying.  When I see Mr. Di again, I'm not sure if I'm going to punch him in the face, or perhaps he just may be proud of me for trying to fix things the way he could.

I was successful in cleaning the dryer vent 2 weeks ago. I didn't want to do it, but if I wanted dry clothes I had to.  I also washed the filter in the furnace.  Something I don't normally think about but now I have to.

Next month will be time to open up the bay cottage.  My son and I already know there will likely be a valve outside that is busted as it was last year.  I pulled the receipt out for the parts needed and showed him.  Don't want to spend all day in the supply house- I can just order what's needed online and pick it up.  With any luck we may have water on day 1. (chuckles).    So mad, nervous and anxious.    Meanwhile, I'll be outside pulling weeds.  I know how to do that!  Of course I just noticed that we're out of trash bags!

1 hour ago, DiPros said:

Thought I'd try to liquid nail some baseboard trim (1/4 round) as it's so old I'm afraid a nail might break it. 

predrill for the nails. any adhesive needs pressure to cure properly. just liquid nail and no pressure (in this case also nailing) and you risk a 'loose cure' and trim may peel away from wall over time. 

1 hour ago, wholesale_Melvin said:

predrill for the nails. any adhesive needs pressure to cure properly. just liquid nail and no pressure (in this case also nailing) and you risk a 'loose cure' and trim may peel away from wall over time. 

Got it.  

I saw these family cubbies on "Man with a Plan" and thought of all you builder-types with kids - @hputenis, @paco, @wholesale_Melvin, etc.

DO THIS!

btw I could have cropped out the hot babysitter but... I didn't want to 

2 hours ago, Arthur Jackson said:

I saw these family cubbies on "Man with a Plan" and thought of all you builder-types with kids - @hputenis, @paco, @wholesale_Melvin, etc.

DO THIS!

btw I could have cropped out the hot babysitter but... I didn't want to 

Thank you for mistaking me for a "builder-type.”  😂  I can barely put together a basic step by step DIY table with 4 total parts. 

22 minutes ago, hputenis said:

Thank you for mistaking me for a "builder-type.”  😂  I can barely put together a basic step by step DIY table with 4 total parts. 

leave me alone I'm preoccupied with the above babysitter now

do what you want it's your house

30 minutes ago, Arthur Jackson said:

leave me alone I'm preoccupied with the above babysitter now

do what you want it's your house

You are a maniac. 😆

My son just left.  I made him spaghetti meatballs and garlic bread.  He put some trim up. The ceiling piece looks good.  The sides not so much so I will be caulking.  Baseboard still not done. Couldn’t find any nails and kid didn’t have saw to cut floor to fill the register pieces in!